The Church of the Holy Virgin Kapnikarea is one of the most ancient Byzantine churches in Athens. It is believed that it was built around 1050 on the site of an older shrine, which had been erected by Eudokia of Athens, the wife of the Byzantine Emperor Theodosius II. It is an Orthodox church, which is located in the historical centre of the capital of Greece on the Ermou street — the commercial and the most popular one among travelers.
It is considered that this tourist attraction was built in the 11th century. Like other early Christian churches, it was built on the site of an ancient Greek temple. Historians believe that in its turn, the temple was the place of worshiping one of the goddesses — Athena or Demeter. Architecturally, the building was already a cross-domed temple and consisted of three interconnected parts. But they were built in different periods of time.
The first part, which is the largest one, was built in 1050 in honour of the Entry of the Most Holy Virgin into the Church. The second, domed chapel, was built much later, and was already dedicated to Saint Barbara. By the way, the outer narthex had originally been an open portico, which was later turned into a porch with two columns that were decorated with mosaics over the entrance. But it is not even this that is interesting, but the special masonry. It is called "cloisonne" and was popular in the 11th century.
Its peculiarity is that there are blocks not only made of stone, but also of brick of that time. At the same time, the latter was used only above the windowsills. At the bottom of the building, builders usually left solid blocks of stone, as if attaching it to the ruins of the previous building. Nevertheless, all the blocks were laid in the form of a cross. It is also surprising that the walls of the church are decorated with a very organic and unusual Kufic ornament. It can be seen today as well.
This hardy little temple survived being bombed by the Turks in 1689. But the most difficult period for the Church of Panaghia Kapnikarea in Athens was the period of the Greek revolution. At that time, the capital circulated several times between different authorities, who treated the attraction differently. Later, in the 1830ies, when the construction of Ermou street was planned, the Greek king Otto I brought the architect Leo von Klenze to Athens. Inspired by the untouched territory, he decided to demolish the church. But king Ludwig of Bavaria argued against this decision and saved the church. By the way, it has been preserved in its almost original form to nowadays.
Since 1931, the church of Panaghia Kapnikarea has belonged to the University of Athens. It was due to it that the dome of the structure was reconstructed and it occasionally continues to revive the temple.
The church amazes by itself. At least, by the incredible atmosphere that you feel as soon as you cross the threshold of the shrine. The light from the small windows reflects on the holy faces, and they seem to begin to shimmer. In addition, the abundance of stone makes the interior inscrutable and majestic. You just admire how this mysterious quiet place shares a neighborhood with one of the noisiest streets in Athens.
The interior walls of the church were painted in the 1950ies by the famous Greek contemporary artist Fotis Kontoglou. In 1942, the maestro painted a fresco "Our lady of Oranta in the conch of the temple". But the most popular and impressive work of the attraction belongs not to him but to Ally Voyloy. What is meant here is the mural "Holy Mother and the child", which the artist created in 1936. In addition, you can also see the frescoes in the Western style, which date back to about 1900. Moreover, it is impossible not to recall the Kufic ornament on the outer walls of the building.
The church is relatively small, and you can easily navigate here as in any Orthodox church.
The church of Panagia Kapnikarea is located in the centre of the busy shopping district of modern Athens on the outskirts of the Plaka district. You can get here by taxi or by private transport. But we recommend that you refuse from using them and walk to the attraction on foot.
To see the temple, go to the popular Monastiraki flea market. The church is just a stone's throw from it.
